La farina in pasticceria | dalla 00 alla farina integrale

quando e come utilizzarle

La farina più utilizzata in pasticceria è la farina di grano tenero 00. Ultimamente si sta ponendo un’attenzione sempre maggiore per la farina integrale, prodotto molto più nutriente.

La farina 00 è una farina raffinata. La raffinazione comporta l’eliminazione del germe, la parte più nutriente del grano tenero. Non contiene crusca ed è composta quasi esclusivamente da amido, rendendola una farina ricca di carboidrati. La farina integrale invece contiene anche il germe, ed è la più completa da un punto di vista nutrizionale.

Le farine di grano tenero si suddividono in 00, 0, 1, 2 ed integrale. Questa scala si riferisce ai diversi gradi di raffinazione.

Il fattore W indica l’indice di panificabilità, cioè in base alla qualità ed alla quantità di glutine contenuto in una farina l’impasto avrà più o meno resistenza ed elasticità. Un alto valore W (da 280 a 350) indica un’alta qualità del glutine, l’impasto assorbirà molta acqua e lieviterà lentamente. Un basso valore W (da 160 a 220) indica una farina che ha bisogno di poca acqua. La farina Manitoba è una farina con un valore W superiore ai 350.

La proprietà più importante della farina è la sua forza, cioè la sua resistenza durante la lavorazione dell’impasto. Più le farine sono raffinate più il loro contenuto di glutine aumenta, per questo motivo le farine 0 e 00 sono consigliate per i prodotti lievitati, come pane, brioche e focacce. Se avete provato a realizzare dei prodotti lievitati con il solo ausilio della farina integrale ed il risultato non è stato all’altezza delle vostre aspettative un motivo c’è!

Il chicco di grano è composto dalla crusca, dal germe e dall’endosperma. Nella produzione della farina integrale il chicco viene completamente macinato. Nella produzione della farina bianca si priva il chicco della crusca e del germe. Crusca e germe contengono un maggior numero di proteine, ma non sono tutte proteine che producono il glutine, fondamentale, questo, per ottenere dei buoni prodotti lievitati. L’endosperma contiene principalmente due proteine: gliadine e glutenine. Queste, a contatto con l’acqua e per azione meccanica, si legano chimicamente e formano il glutine, creando una maglia elastica tanto preziosa per i prodotti lievitati, che la farina integrale e le farine senza glutine non sono in grado di creare. L’anidride carbonica evaporando resta intrappolata nella maglia glutinica facendo gonfiare l’impasto.

Se è difficile trovare nei supermercati farine che indicano il fattore W (per ottenere dei buoni prodotti lievitati dovrebbe aggirarsi dai 280 ai 350) si può aggiungere un po’ di farina Manitoba all’impasto in una percentuale del 20. In commercio c’è anche la Manitoba integrale. Inoltre potete confrontare le tabelle nutrizionali delle farine e scegliere quelle con un maggior contenuto di proteine. Ad esempio 2 farine doppio zero potrebbero avere un diverso contenuto in proteine.

Fondamentale inoltre è rispettare sempre alcune regole nell’esecuzione della ricetta. Negli impasti lievitati, ed esempio, è importante inserire la parte grassa come ultimo ingrediente. Questo perché la materia grassa forma una pellicola che provoca l’isolamento delle cellule del lievito. Gli impasti lievitati inoltre devono avere almeno il 35% di parte acquosa per un’idratazione omogenea ed ottimale del glutine.

Se gli impasti lievitati vanno lavorati a lungo, le paste friabili vanno lavorate molto velocemente, proprio per impedire la formazione di questa maglia glutinica che renderebbe crostate e biscotti troppo duri. E’ per questo che sostituire una farina bianca con una farina integrale in molte tipologie di frollini o torte da forno non rischia di compromettere la buona riuscita del prodotto, al massimo renderà biscotti, crostate e torte da forno più friabili, modificandone però la componente nutritiva.

Nicla

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